Program comparison

FHA vs Conventional: The Real Cost Comparison

Everyone asks "which is cheaper?" The honest answer: it depends on your credit, how long you'll own the house, and how fast you'll hit 20% equity. Here's the math.

Brian Mix— Licensed Loan Officer, NMLS #111175
Published July 8, 202610 min read

TL;DR

  • FHA wins if your credit is under 700, your DTI is above 43%, or you have less than 5% down.
  • Conventional wins if your credit is 700+ and you'll either put 20% down or reach 20% equity within ~5 years.
  • Common play: Use FHA to get in with 3.5% down, then refinance to Conventional once you have 20% equity to kill the monthly MIP.

Side-by-side at a glance

 FHAConventional
Min credit580 (500 with 10% down)620 (740+ for best pricing)
Min down3.5%3% (Conv 97) / 5% standard
Max DTIUp to 56.9%Up to 50%
Upfront MI1.75% of loan (financed)None
Monthly MI0.55% MIP — life of loan*PMI — drops off at 20% equity
Gift funds100% allowedAllowed with restrictions
Property conditionStricter FHA appraisalStandard appraisal

*FHA MIP drops off after 11 years only if you put 10% down. With 3.5% down (the default), monthly MIP stays for the full loan term unless you refinance.

Real-world payment: $400K house, 5% down

Assumptions: $400,000 purchase, 5% down ($20K), 6.75% rate, 1.1% property tax, 0.4% homeowners insurance, 700 FICO. Base loan $380,000.

LineFHAConventional 95%
Loan amount (w/ upfront MIP)$386,650$380,000
Principal & interest$2,508$2,465
Property tax$367$367
Homeowners insurance$133$133
Monthly MI$177 (MIP)$203 (PMI @ 700 FICO)
Total PITI$3,185$3,168

At 700 FICO, the two payments are within $17/month of each other — Conventional slightly lower. But raise the FICO to 760 and Conventional's PMI drops to ~$120/month while FHA stays at $177. Now Conventional is $80/month cheaper on day one.

The break-even math nobody shows you

FHA's MIP is the killer over time — 0.55% annually on the balance, forever. On a $380K loan that's ~$2,100/year that never goes away until you refinance.

Conventional PMI, by contrast, is required to auto-terminate at 78% LTV (22% equity) and can be requested at 80% LTV. On the same $400K house with normal appreciation, that usually happens between year 4 and year 7.

10-year total cost of MI (est.)

FHA MIP: ~$19,800

Conventional PMI (drops at yr 5): ~$12,180

Conventional saves ~$7,600 over 10 years at 700 FICO — and more at higher scores.

When FHA is objectively the right call

  • Credit score under 680 (Conventional PMI gets expensive fast below 700)
  • DTI between 45% and 56.9% (Conventional will decline)
  • Recent credit event: chapter 7 >2 yrs, foreclosure >3 yrs
  • Non-occupant co-borrower needed to qualify
  • Manual underwrite required (rare, but FHA has more flexibility)

When Conventional is the right call

  • 700+ FICO — PMI pricing gets cheap fast
  • 10%+ down (LPMI or single-premium PMI beat FHA outright)
  • Higher-priced home above FHA county loan limits
  • Investment property or 2nd home (FHA is primary-residence only)
  • Property condition issues that would fail an FHA appraisal

The refi-out-of-FHA play

The most common thing I do for FHA buyers 3–5 years in: refinance to Conventional to drop the MIP. You need:

  1. 20% equity (from appreciation + paydown, or a new appraisal)
  2. 620+ FICO (740+ is best)
  3. Enough rate spread to justify closing costs (usually 0.5%+ improvement)

In Phoenix / Scottsdale, buyers who bought FHA in 2021–2023 hit that 20% equity mark well within 3 years. Killing MIP alone can save $150–$250/month.

Where to go from here

Get your own FHA vs Conventional side-by-side

Uses your real credit, income, debts, and target price. Free, 60 seconds, no credit pull.